Shoulder Season Sarge

During the first three weeks of November, Sarge and I took advantage of the dry and unseasonably warm weather and got out as much as possible, including three more rockpile romps on his march to 100, and knocking off twenty of twenty-five November G3 peaks for myself. 

First up was a Saturday, November 2nd trip to Mount Carrigan. We started at first light before all the weekend warriors came rolling in so we had Sawyer River Road, closed from washouts of the December 2023 storm, and Signal Ridge Trail all to ourselves until halfway back down the mountain. Other than a little rime ice on the summit tower it was smooth sailing, unfortunately Signal Ridge and the summit was in the clouds, so no views were to be had which is a bummer since the summit tower has one of the best views in the White Mountains.

Sarge on an old skidder road which is off trail that cuts off a switchback about halfway up the mountain. Sarge on the summit tower

Sarge and I pushed the pace on Carrigain, finishing the 14-mile 4000' elevation gain in just over three hours so he got Sunday off while I headed to Lincoln to run Owl's Head. Another early start and trails all to myself following the standard route of Lincoln Woods, Black Pond, BP Bushwhack, Lincoln Brook, Brutus Bushwhack and Owl's Head Path. It was cold but comfortable and I was in cruise control enjoying my time alone in the wilderness not seeing a soul until almost back to the Black Pond Bushwhack. All in all it was a terrific morning covering the 16-mile 3250' elevation gain in just over three and a half hours.

Owl's Head as seen from Black Pond Trail

Monday, November 3rd Sarge and I started the week off with a pre-work rock hop up the Rockpile via the Sherburne Ski Trail and Tuckerman Ravine Trail. We started at 6AM and trail conditions were tame and easy with the temperature hovering around thirty degrees with barely any wind. As we passed HoJo's (Hermit Lake) Andrew Drummond caught up to us and we headed up to the summit and back down to the lip together before he speeded off and Sarge and I throttled down enjoying what would be our final Tuckerman Ravine Trail summit of the year!

Sarge heads up the John Sherburne Ski Trail under cotton candy clouds.

Tuckerman Ravine and the now frozen "Falls of a Thousand Streams" lining the headwall

Wednesday, November 6th we headed to Crawford Notch for a full-on Summertime greasy footing hike of Field, Willey, and Tom. We started at first light in a t-shirt and shorts as the temperature was in the mid-sixties and it did not cool off as we gained elevation. It was slow going as the unseasonable humidity made the rocks slippery, it was a good morning to work on staying upright which both of us were able to do!

Warm and humid morning in the Willey Range. Sarge waiting patiently in a small clearing just past Mount Avalon and Sarge taking in the views of Crawford Notch from the Mount Willey Outlook

Saturday, November 9th Sarge and I hiked a loop of Mount Passaconaway and Whiteface via Oliverian Brook Trail, Passaconaway Cutoff, Square Ledge Trail, Walden Trail, Dicey's Mill Trail, Rollins Trail, Kate Sleeper Trail, Downes Brook Trail, and X-Country ski trails. A nice 15 mile 4,000' elevation gained route over mostly easy to moderate grades. We got a later than usual start, 9am, to allow for the high winds to die down up high. Unlike the approach from Ferncroft the trails from the Kanc are lightly used and we didn't see anyone until just below the summit of Passaconaway and a few more along Rollins Trail on our way to Whiteface. It was cold but comfortable up high and mild down low as Sarge set a good pace for the day and we completed the loop in three and a half hours. 

Sarge standing at the Sandwich Wilderness Boundary on Downes Brook Trail and running in the sun along the cross-country ski trails

Sunday, November 10th we headed to Mount Moosilauke for what was to be a group hike for my friend Ashley's birthday, but everyone dropped out, so it was just the Dood and me. Everyone missed out because it was a stunning morning on Mount Moosilauke. Views from the summit were crystal clear and we could spot the mountains of the Adirondacks in New York. Well worth the long drive from Gorham to have an easy no wind day on the usually windy Moosilauke over bone dry trails!

Sarge on the final approach to Mount Moosilauke's summit

Sarge on South Peak

Wednesday, November 13th, it was back to our usual first light starts as we hiked the Kinsmans from Easton via Mount Kinsman Trail and Kinsman Ridge Trail, 10 miles, 4,000' elevation gained. It was our first hike where we had to tap dance around some ice on both sounds of North Kinsman's summit cone but other than that it was another no traction November morning moving at a good clip along the trails with some decent views from the summits. It was cold above 4K early in the morning but comfortable down low where we ran into a few friendly locals who hike up to Bald Mountain routinely. 

Sarge on South Kinsman's throne cairn. From this vantage point it looks like he has a turtle shell, teenage mutant ninja doodle!

Sarge on North Kinsman with Franconia Ridge behind him

Thursday, November 14th I took a PTO day and Sarge and I took the express way up to the Rockpile. Easy conditions as we hiked the swath next to the Cog Railway, no need for traction as we made our way up and down under abundant sunshine and no wind for the win! 

The Dood checking out the views of the Northern Presidential Range (Jefferson, Adams, Madison)

Sarge with Mount Jefferson rising high above the Great Gulf

Saturday, November 16th was a day off for the Dood while I headed to Waterville Valley for a favorite loop of mine, Tecumsceolas, over Mount Tecumseh and the Osceola's via Waterville Valley Ski Trails, Mount Tecumseh Trail, Tripoli Road, Mount Osceola Trail, Greeley Ponds Trail, Livermore Trail, and Nordic ski trails. 17 miles and 5,650' elevation gained in just under four and a half hours. 

Another early start to the day as I headed up the ski trails to shave off a half mile before ducking back into the woods at an outlook along the Mount Tecumseh Trail. I didn't see another hiker until I spooked someone on the summit, then crossed paths with a few more as I descended the backside of Mount Tecumseh. When I reached Tripoli Road I wasn't feeling great so I throttled down, refueled, and hydrated while keeping an easy pace to Mount Osceola Trailhead and along the first mile of the trail. As I gained elevation, I felt like my normal self again and made good time up over and down the Osceola's to the Greeley Ponds Trail junction.

Along the beautiful and secluded four mile stretch of the Greeley Ponds Trail, I jumped off trail for a mile and headed past an old logging campsite, #5, that was in use from 1915 to the early 1930's where I checked out some old rusted artifacts. This off trail excursion used to be part of the Greeley Ponds Trail before it was washed out just south of the campsite and rerouted up a PUD away from the Mad River

Beautiful morning from the lower slopes of Waterville Valley Ski Area. Mount Tecumseh on the left, Tripyramids on the right

Lower Greeley Ponds

Camp 5 artifacts

Sunday, November 17th Sarge and I headed over Pinkham Notch and down to the Rocky Branch Trailhead for an on and off trail hike of Mount Isolation. We made quick work of the Rocky Branch Trail to the height of land before hopping off trail at the "T" tree where we started the Engine Hill Bushwhack. During the whack we maintained a course along 3250' heading in and out of the many Birch Glades over the next mile. Along the way we saw a huge bull moose who luckily scampered uphill wanting nothing to do with us. After about a mile we dropped down and intersected the Isolation Trail and stayed on this until the Davis Path junction. The Isolation trail was a mix of bare ground, ice, and frozen mud. Unlike the western part of the trail that drops down into the Dry River Valley, the eastern section is not a very attractive or fun trail to travel. Because of this, after summiting we decided to take another bushwhack on the way out.

Isolation Express Bushwhack starts in a small col 0.25 miles from the summit. We were able to follow some tracks in the dusting of snow and once that petered out we were able to stay on course as there was a decent herd path to follow. However, somewhere along the lower half Sarge and I ventured off the normal route to the south and ended up hiking through a semi open plateau before stumbling upon the Rocky Branch where we easily crossed the river and then made our way up a steep embankment where we hooked onto the lower part of the Mount Isolation Trail. We probably saved a third of a mile doing this but saved no time at all.  Once back on trail we decided to bypass the Engine Hill Bushwhack and stick to the trails on the way back making for an easy finish to the morning's hike covering the 13 miles and 3600' elevation gained in under four hours.

Sarge posing for a picture as we travel through one of many Birch glades off trail

Windy Mount Isolation Summit with Mount Washington and the Boott Sour in view

Tuesday, November 19th, Sarge and I did a quick hike up to Mount Garfield. Nothing too exciting on trail this day, the summit was windy and in the clouds so we didn't hang around. Trail conditions were pretty good with a dusting of snow starting at 3500' and a fresh couple of inches of snow over the last half mile. We made quick work of Garfield making it up and down before the start of the work day.

Sarge happy to be in the snow at the Mount Garfield / Garfield Ridge Trail junction and enjoying the windy summit of Mount Garfield

Wednesday, November 20th Sarge and I headed above the clouds for one last no gear hike up the Rockpile until Spring. We had incredible undercast as we headed along the Cog Railway, easy and straightforward hiking while taking in the views and enjoying the mild weather that was already hoovering around freezing. Sage set the pace and we motored up and down in just over two hours. It's been a helluva run on Washington since Memorial Day with Sarge getting up top weekly and we are already looking forward to 5AM June through August starts in t-shirt and shorts in 2025!

Twin Range floating above a sea of clouds

Sarge heads past the warming station where winter Cog riders can get a small taste of the elements 

Sarge on trail with undercast blanketing Bretton Woods

Mount Clay and Jefferson 

Crossing the tracks along the A.T.

Bright sunshine on the summit of Mount Washington

Sarge on the summit and next to the McAdams & Chadwick memorial cross a few hundred feet from the summit

Sarge basking in the sun on the observation deck

Looking north toward Gorham

One last picture of Sarge and the undercast

Sarge's Summer NH4K's & Rock Hopping Summer Finale

 - As the final weeks of summer went by Sarge did the usual; weekly hikes up Mount Washington and picking away at his remaining Summer NH48 4K peaks, finishing on Mount Isolation with a couple of days to spare.

- In September the Dood hiked East and Main peak Osceola, North and South Hancock, Flume, Liberty, Whiteface, Passaconaway, Tom, Field, Willey, and Isolation to wrap up his summer list. He has now hiked all NH48 4K's in summer, fall, and winter with six left in spring to complete his Spring 4K's (Bondcliff, Bond, West Bond, Liberty, Flume, Isolation). 

- Weather has been pretty phenomenal as a dry and sunny stretch has lasted the majority of September so far. Trail conditions were close to perfect making for easy hiking for all of the White Mountains. Only downside is daybreak is now after 6AM so the 5AM starts we enjoyed from June until mid-August are a thing of the past, but we were still able to sneak in hikes before work. 

- Sarge and I are now looking forward to a few weeks of foliage hikes and runs before stick season settles in.

Sarge at Glen Boulder as he takes the scenic way over to Isolation

Taking in the views from Mount Osceola's old fire tower foundation

Sarge on Tuckerman Ravine Trail looking down at Lakes of the Clouds and Mount Monroe

Early morning on the Rockpile

Mount Willey outlook, Washington off in the distance

Sarge just north of the summit of Mount Liberty with Lincoln, Lafayette, and Garfield in the distance

Tuckerman Ravine

Leaves starting to change in the Bowl in Tuckerman Ravine

Glen Boulder Trail. Sun rising above Wildcat Ridge 

Sarge looking at the Southern Presidential Range from Mount Isolation

Mount Isolation

Summer 48 finish on Isolation!

9/21/24

Castle Trail: 5.0 miles / Mount Jefferson Loop: 0.3 miles / Gulfside: 0.7 miles / Sphinx Trail: 1.1 miles / Great Gulf Trail: 2.2 miles / Gulfside Trail: 0.4 miles: Auto Road: 1.5 miles / Wamsutta: 1.7 miles / Six Husbands Trail: 0.5 miles / Buttress Trail: 2.2 miles / Star Lake Trail: 0.2 miles / Osgood Trail: 1.0 miles / Airline Cutoff: 0.2 miles / Airline: 0.3 miles / Chemin Des Dames: 0.4 miles / King Ravine Trail: 0.9 miles / Airline: 0.6 miles: Lowe's Path: 0.3 miles / Israel Ridge Path: 3.8 miles / Castle Trail: 1.4 miles

Total Miles: 24.5 (11,500' elevation gained)

- On the final day of summer I headed to Bowman for a big day out traveling over some of the lighter used trails in the Presidential Range, (Sphinx, Great Gulf, Wamsutta, Buttress, King Ravine, and Israel Ridge). 

- I started out with a long approach to Mount Jefferson via the Castle Trail. The trail starts off with good footing and gentle grades for the first two miles before steeply rising to a beautiful knoll through softwoods until just below treeline. The last mile and a half is a mix of steep grades up and along the castellated ridge before heading through a boulder field below the summit cone.

Below treeline on Castle Trail

Looking down at the first Castle along the Castellated Ridge

Watching undercast floating in the Great Gulf from Mount Jefferson's summit

- There was a slight chill in the air on the summit of Mount Jefferson so I didn't linger around too long before descending Jefferson Loop past Monticello Lawn to the Gulfside Trail where I trail ran to the Sphinx Col to start the steep drop down into the Great Gulf.

- Sphinx Trail is (or was) my adopted trail, not sure if it still is as I have been trying to give it away for the past five years but the AMC still sends me relevant trail adopter emails. Anyway, the trail is holding up well, the only spots that need some love are above treeline there needs to be one or two small cairns built for a better line of sight for ease of following, just above the mossy wet rock wall ledge some brushing back of the trail is needed, and some water bar clearing midway down the trail.

- The highlight of the Sphinx Trail is it gets you to the floor of the Great Gulf quickly, 1.1 miles, and there are two attractive cascades which were running low with the recent lack of rain. Footing is not great below treeline as there is one section that travels through a brook and other spots have some tricky footing. I'd say only the last quarter mile is pretty tame, so if you like rough and rugged than this trail is for you!

Monticello Lawn

Sphinx Col

Undercast starting to break up as I head down into the Great Gulf

Cascade on the Sphinx Trail. Usually it is more impressive but with the lack of rain it's running quite low

- Next up was the Great Gulf Trail to the summit of Mount Washington. After and easy mile of moderate grades the trail passes by Spaulding Lake where you can get a great view of the huge bowl that makes up the Great Gulf Headwall. From the lake the trail gains around 1600' in just 0.75 miles. It's a steep climb, first up and around huge boulders and then over loose rocks of all sizes. It is a grind but well worth it as views are tremendous. 

- The transition from solitude to civilization is a quick one once the trail tops out above the headwall, the Cog Railroad is reached a few hundred feet from where the Great Gulf Trail ends at the Gulfside Trail junction. From here it's just a rock hop skip and a jump to the summit of Mount Washington.

Weetamoo Cascade along the Great Gulf Trail

Spaulding Lake

Loose and steep Great Gulf headwall

Colors changing fast in the Great Gulf with Jefferson, Adams, and Madison rising high above

Undercast floating into the Great Gulf

Summit Observatory

Cog Railway

- At the summit I grabbed some food, refilled water, chugged Gatorade, and warmed up inside. The crowds had not swarmed the summit yet so it was peaceful lounging around for ten minutes before getting back on trail or in this case road as in the Auto Road. Usually, I head down Nelson Crag and Alpine Garden Trail to the Wamsutta Trail but I figured I'd give my legs a break from knee hammering rocks and pounded pavement for 1.5 miles. 

- Wamsutta Trail is another lightly used trail that is grown in near the top but is very well maintained for 95% of its length. There are a few gnarly but fun spots to negotiate below treeline but for the most part it is easier than most trails in the Great Gulf.

Mount Washington Auto Road

Descending the Wamsutta Trail with Mount Jefferson directly ahead

- After bottoming out in the Great Gulf for the second time I traveled along the Six Husbands Trail for 0.5 miles and then hooked onto the Buttress Trail for what was the longest 2.2 miles of the day. The trail starts and ends with a bang, great views, but most of the trail is in the woods and feels like a time warp with a few very overgrown spots with tough to see ankle twisting boobie traps. It was the low point of the day for me, energy levels were falling and it was quite warm in the woods. Thankfully, towards the end of the trail I ran into a couple of friendly faces, Sue and Al, and we chatted it up for a few minutes before heading to Madison Spring Hut for baked goods before going our separate ways.

West Branch Peabody River crossing at the start of the Six Husbands Trail. Lowest I've ever seen this crossing.

View of The Great Gulf and Jefferson Ravine from the talus field on Buttress Trail

Me informing Sue about Madison Spring Hut having the best selection of baked goods out of all the huts during the 2024 season!

Star Lake, almost bone dry, wow!

- Feeling rejuvenated I made quick work of the short out and back to Madison's summit, Airline Cutoff, and Airline Trail, before carefully picking my way down the notoriously steep 0.4 miles of the Chemin Des Dames to the floor of King Ravine. At this point I was 9300' of elevation gain into the day so being extra cautious on my last rugged descent on tired legs to avoid a bad fall was the name of the game.

- After safely navigating Chemin Des Dames I was ready for one last gut punch of ascent up King Ravine headwall on my way to Mount Adam's summit, a mere 1.5 miles and 2,200', nothing to it!

- I bypassed the Subway and Ice Cave side links of the trail, as much as I enjoy crawling over, under, and around the boulders, staying on the "Elevated" portion of the main trail was an easy decision to make on tiring legs.

- Just like the Great Gulf headwall, King Ravine has incredible views the higher it goes. Birch tree leaves are quickly changing color leaving a golden pattern woven in with the green pine along the floor of the ravine. 

- Once I topped out of the King Ravine I joined the Airline Trail up to the Summit. The final two hundred feet I slowed down quite a bit so when I reached the top I took a much needed ten-minute break to get my strength back before the final 5.5 mile descent back to Bowman.

Mount Madison Summit

King Ravine

The "Gateway" final pitch before gaining the Durand Ridge

Madison Spring Hut

Star Lake and Mount Madison as seen from Mount Adams

- Last but not least was the final section of my final summer hike/run, Israel Ridge Path. It coincides with Gulfside Trail from Thunderstorm Junction to Adams IV before curving high above Castle Ravine as it slowly drops below treeline. The final three + miles was over forgiving footing through beautiful woods blanketed in fallen Birch leaves. It was a much welcomed finish to the 25 miles adventure over mostly knee hammering rocks, time flew by as I made it back to Bowman just over eight and a half hours after starting.

- Back at the Jeep I cleaned myself off and relaxed for quite a while before heading back to Gorham to relax with the Dood. A perfect way to end another successful summer rock hopping above treeline!

Gulfside Trail / Israel Ridge Path with Mount Jefferson, Clay, and Washington in view.

Israel Ridge Trail, lightly used and heaven on earth for your feet!