Hiking in the White Mountains: Garfield

Showing posts with label Garfield. Show all posts

Shoulder Season Sarge

During the first three weeks of November, Sarge and I took advantage of the dry and unseasonably warm weather and got out as much as possible, including three more rockpile romps on his march to 100, and knocking off twenty of twenty-five November G3 peaks for myself.

First up was a Saturday, November 2nd trip to Mount Carrigan. We started at first light before all the weekend warriors came rolling in so we had Sawyer River Road, closed from washouts of the December 2023 storm, and Signal Ridge Trail all to ourselves until halfway back down the mountain. Other than a little rime ice on the summit tower it was smooth sailing, unfortunately Signal Ridge and the summit was in the clouds, so no views were to be had which is a bummer since the summit tower has one of the best views in the White Mountains.

Sarge on an old skidder road which is off trail that cuts off a switchback about halfway up the mountain. Sarge on the summit tower

Sarge and I pushed the pace on Carrigain, finishing the 14-mile 4000' elevation gain in just over three hours so he got Sunday off while I headed to Lincoln to run Owl's Head. Another early start and trails all to myself following the standard route of Lincoln Woods, Black Pond, BP Bushwhack, Lincoln Brook, Brutus Bushwhack and Owl's Head Path. It was cold but comfortable and I was in cruise control enjoying my time alone in the wilderness not seeing a soul until almost back to the Black Pond Bushwhack. All in all it was a terrific morning covering the 16-mile 3250' elevation gain in just over three and a half hours.

Owl's Head as seen from Black Pond Trail

Monday, November 3rd Sarge and I started the week off with a pre-work rock hop up the Rockpile via the Sherburne Ski Trail and Tuckerman Ravine Trail. We started at 6AM and trail conditions were tame and easy with the temperature hovering around thirty degrees with barely any wind. As we passed HoJo's (Hermit Lake) Andrew Drummond caught up to us and we headed up to the summit and back down to the lip together before he speeded off and Sarge and I throttled down enjoying what would be our final Tuckerman Ravine Trail summit of the year!

Sarge heads up the John Sherburne Ski Trail under cotton candy clouds.

Tuckerman Ravine and the now frozen "Falls of a Thousand Streams" lining the headwall

Wednesday, November 6th we headed to Crawford Notch for a full-on Summertime greasy footing hike of Field, Willey, and Tom. We started at first light in a t-shirt and shorts as the temperature was in the mid-sixties and it did not cool off as we gained elevation. It was slow going as the unseasonable humidity made the rocks slippery, it was a good morning to work on staying upright which both of us were able to do!

Warm and humid morning in the Willey Range. Sarge waiting patiently in a small clearing just past Mount Avalon and Sarge taking in the views of Crawford Notch from the Mount Willey Outlook

Saturday, November 9th Sarge and I hiked a loop of Mount Passaconaway and Whiteface via Oliverian Brook Trail, Passaconaway Cutoff, Square Ledge Trail, Walden Trail, Dicey's Mill Trail, Rollins Trail, Kate Sleeper Trail, Downes Brook Trail, and X-Country ski trails. A nice 15 mile 4,000' elevation gained route over mostly easy to moderate grades. We got a later than usual start, 9am, to allow for the high winds to die down up high. Unlike the approach from Ferncroft the trails from the Kanc are lightly used and we didn't see anyone until just below the summit of Passaconaway and a few more along Rollins Trail on our way to Whiteface. It was cold but comfortable up high and mild down low as Sarge set a good pace for the day and we completed the loop in three and a half hours.

Sarge standing at the Sandwich Wilderness Boundary on Downes Brook Trail and running in the sun along the cross-country ski trails

Sunday, November 10th we headed to Mount Moosilauke for what was to be a group hike for my friend Ashley's birthday, but everyone dropped out, so it was just the Dood and me. Everyone missed out because it was a stunning morning on Mount Moosilauke. Views from the summit were crystal clear and we could spot the mountains of the Adirondacks in New York. Well worth the long drive from Gorham to have an easy no wind day on the usually windy Moosilauke over bone dry trails!

Sarge on the final approach to Mount Moosilauke's summit

Sarge on South Peak

Wednesday, November 13th, it was back to our usual first light starts as we hiked the Kinsmans from Easton via Mount Kinsman Trail and Kinsman Ridge Trail, 10 miles, 4,000' elevation gained. It was our first hike where we had to tap dance around some ice on both sounds of North Kinsman's summit cone but other than that it was another no traction November morning moving at a good clip along the trails with some decent views from the summits. It was cold above 4K early in the morning but comfortable down low where we ran into a few friendly locals who hike up to Bald Mountain routinely.

Sarge on South Kinsman's throne cairn. From this vantage point it looks like he has a turtle shell, teenage mutant ninja doodle!

Sarge on North Kinsman with Franconia Ridge behind him

Thursday, November 14th I took a PTO day and Sarge and I took the express way up to the Rockpile. Easy conditions as we hiked the swath next to the Cog Railway, no need for traction as we made our way up and down under abundant sunshine and no wind for the win!

The Dood checking out the views of the Northern Presidential Range (Jefferson, Adams, Madison)

Sarge with Mount Jefferson rising high above the Great Gulf

Saturday, November 16th was a day off for the Dood while I headed to Waterville Valley for a favorite loop of mine, Tecumsceolas, over Mount Tecumseh and the Osceola's via Waterville Valley Ski Trails, Mount Tecumseh Trail, Tripoli Road, Mount Osceola Trail, Greeley Ponds Trail, Livermore Trail, and Nordic ski trails. 17 miles and 5,650' elevation gained in just under four and a half hours.

Another early start to the day as I headed up the ski trails to shave off a half mile before ducking back into the woods at an outlook along the Mount Tecumseh Trail. I didn't see another hiker until I spooked someone on the summit, then crossed paths with a few more as I descended the backside of Mount Tecumseh. When I reached Tripoli Road I wasn't feeling great so I throttled down, refueled, and hydrated while keeping an easy pace to Mount Osceola Trailhead and along the first mile of the trail. As I gained elevation, I felt like my normal self again and made good time up over and down the Osceola's to the Greeley Ponds Trail junction.

Along the beautiful and secluded four mile stretch of the Greeley Ponds Trail, I jumped off trail for a mile and headed past an old logging campsite, #5, that was in use from 1915 to the early 1930's where I checked out some old rusted artifacts. This off trail excursion used to be part of the Greeley Ponds Trail before it was washed out just south of the campsite and rerouted up a PUD away from the Mad River

Beautiful morning from the lower slopes of Waterville Valley Ski Area. Mount Tecumseh on the left, Tripyramids on the right

Lower Greeley Ponds

Camp 5 artifacts

Sunday, November 17th Sarge and I headed over Pinkham Notch and down to the Rocky Branch Trailhead for an on and off trail hike of Mount Isolation. We made quick work of the Rocky Branch Trail to the height of land before hopping off trail at the "T" tree where we started the Engine Hill Bushwhack. During the whack we maintained a course along 3250' heading in and out of the many Birch Glades over the next mile. Along the way we saw a huge bull moose who luckily scampered uphill wanting nothing to do with us. After about a mile we dropped down and intersected the Isolation Trail and stayed on this until the Davis Path junction. The Isolation trail was a mix of bare ground, ice, and frozen mud. Unlike the western part of the trail that drops down into the Dry River Valley, the eastern section is not a very attractive or fun trail to travel. Because of this, after summiting we decided to take another bushwhack on the way out.

Isolation Express Bushwhack starts in a small col 0.25 miles from the summit. We were able to follow some tracks in the dusting of snow and once that petered out we were able to stay on course as there was a decent herd path to follow. However, somewhere along the lower half Sarge and I ventured off the normal route to the south and ended up hiking through a semi open plateau before stumbling upon the Rocky Branch where we easily crossed the river and then made our way up a steep embankment where we hooked onto the lower part of the Mount Isolation Trail. We probably saved a third of a mile doing this but saved no time at all. Once back on trail we decided to bypass the Engine Hill Bushwhack and stick to the trails on the way back making for an easy finish to the morning's hike covering the 13 miles and 3600' elevation gained in under four hours.

Sarge posing for a picture as we travel through one of many Birch glades off trail

Windy Mount Isolation Summit with Mount Washington and the Boott Sour in view

Tuesday, November 19th, Sarge and I did a quick hike up to Mount Garfield. Nothing too exciting on trail this day, the summit was windy and in the clouds so we didn't hang around. Trail conditions were pretty good with a dusting of snow starting at 3500' and a fresh couple of inches of snow over the last half mile. We made quick work of Garfield making it up and down before the start of the work day.

Sarge happy to be in the snow at the Mount Garfield / Garfield Ridge Trail junction and enjoying the windy summit of Mount Garfield

Wednesday, November 20th Sarge and I headed above the clouds for one last no gear hike up the Rockpile until Spring. We had incredible undercast as we headed along the Cog Railway, easy and straightforward hiking while taking in the views and enjoying the mild weather that was already hoovering around freezing. Sage set the pace and we motored up and down in just over two hours. It's been a helluva run on Washington since Memorial Day with Sarge getting up top weekly and we are already looking forward to 5AM June through August starts in t-shirt and shorts in 2025!

Twin Range floating above a sea of clouds

Sarge heads past the warming station where winter Cog riders can get a small taste of the elements

Sarge on trail with undercast blanketing Bretton Woods

Mount Clay and Jefferson

Crossing the tracks along the A.T.

Bright sunshine on the summit of Mount Washington

Sarge on the summit and next to the McAdams & Chadwick memorial cross a few hundred feet from the summit

Sarge basking in the sun on the observation deck

Looking north toward Gorham

One last picture of Sarge and the undercast

24 4K 24H . . . Twenty Four - Four Thousand Foot White Mountain Peaks in Twenty Four Hours

Date of Hike: 7/3/19

Lincoln Woods Trail: 1.4 miles / Osseo Trail: 4.4 miles / Franocnia Ridge Trail: 5.0 miles / Garfield Ridge Trail: 6.6 miles / Frost Trail: 0.8 miles / Twinway 0.8 miles / North Twin Spur: 2.6 miles / Twinway: 2.0 miles / Bondcliff Trail: 0.8 miles / West Bond Spur: 1.0 miles / Bondcliff Trail: 3.0 miles / Twinway: 4.3 miles / Lend-A-Hand Trail: 5.4 miles / Twinway: 0.4 miles / Zealand Trail: 0.3 miles / A-Z Trail: 2.7 miles / Mount Tom Spur: 1.2 miles / Willey Range Trail: 4.9 miles / Avalon & A-Z Trail: 2.7 miles / Webster-Jackson Trail: 2.6 miles / Webster Cliff Trail: 2.7 miles / Crawford Path: 1.2 miles / Mount Eisenhower Loop: 0.8 miles / Crawford Path: 1.4 miles / Mount Monroe Loop: 0.7 miles / Crawford Path: 1.6 miles / Gulfside Trail: 2.7 miles / Mount Jefferson Loop: 0.7 miles / Gulfside Trail: 1.5 miles / Isreal Ridge & Lowe's Path: 0.3 miles / Airline: 0.6 miles / Gulfside Trail: 0.3 miles / Osgood Trail: 0.9 miles / Valley Way: 3.8 miles
Flume to Madison: 62 miles (23,150 feet elevation gained)
Total Miles: 71 miles (26,500 feet elevation gained)

Trip Report:
- Summer is in full swing in the White Mountains, it took forever to get here as we went straight from snow and cold to mud and bugs to hot and humid. Long days and warm temps mean one thing to me . . . getting to spend 24 + hours on my feet traveling through the heart of the White Mountains.
- Tuesday 9PM, Gorham, Todd arrives at my house to go over my gear, food, and fuel list. He's going to car spot me from Appalachia to Lincoln Woods. He will also be joining me for the final push through peaks #17-24 during an extended Presidential Range Traverse.
- 9:30 PM, Lincoln Woods suspension bridge over the East Branch of the Pemigewasset River. I mosey my way along the old railroad grade of the Lincoln Woods Trail before heading up to Mount Flume via the Osseo Trail reaching the summit at 11:40PM. It's a beautiful night out, very dark as there is a new moon, the stars and Milky Way look as if I could reach out and touch them. I take a break and wait until midnight while thinking about the long path ahead over the next 24 hours, knowing as long as I don't injure myself I should be able to make it to Madison's summit by 12AM the next night, I'm nervous and excited!
- 12AM, I'm off heading north along the Franconia Ridge Trail, within a minute I have an issue with my new headlamp as it went into low beam energy saver mode, so weird, but luckily I was using two headlamps and my old trusty one brightly lit the way and I booked it across to Mount Liberty passing by its open summit at 12:22 AM.
- Next two peaks, Lincoln (1:07AM) and Lafayette (1:25AM), were above treeline along the majestic ridge high above Franconia Notch and the Pemi Wilderness. There's nothing quite like traversing the ridge at night with millions of stars having the whole trail to yourself, one that is swarmed with hikers during the day.
- From Lafayette's summit I joined the Garfield Ridge Trail, the king of the PUDs in the White Mountains, six miles of mostly nothingness! However, I find that in the dark it's much more enjoyable and I easily made my way to the bare summit of Mount Garfield (2:40AM), where I chug the rest of my Gatorade and water before dropping down to Garfield Spring. The spring is the best on trail spring in the White Mountains, I chug ice cold water straight from the source, put Gatorade powder in my empty bottle and enjoy the refreshing taste before heading towards Galehead Mountain 3.63 miles away summiting at 4:08AM.
- Next up was the steep climb up to South Twin along the Twinway, but first I stopped at Galehead Hut to fill up on water and Gatorade while waking up the A.T. thru hikers who were sleeping on the floor, cock-a-doodle-do!
- South Twin is a relentless climb with a quarter mile stretch of jagged unforgiving boulders in the middle of the climb. It was still too early to switch off the headlamp making the ascent a little more interesting but I made good time up to the summit arriving at 4:51AM, headlamp turned off for the next sixteen + hours.
- First out and back of the day, North Twin, it's an easy out and back with good footing, North Twin summit 5:15AM. From the summit outlook I gaze across the Pemi, it's already hazy at such an early hour, it's going to be a hot one, time to get moving.
- I made my way back to South Twin and across the Twinway to the Bondcliff Trail junction, second out and back of the day, the three peaks of the Bonds, West Bond (6:33AM), Bond (7:01AM), Bondcliff (7:24AM). On West Bond Spur I finally see the first hikers of the day, interestingly enough the trails ended up being relatively quiet throughout the whole day.
- Views from each of the Bonds were phenomenal as always, even if it was hazy. It was also still early enough that the heat wasn't a factor yet as I traveled over the open ridge of Bondcliff.
- Now it was time to leave the ring around the Pemi and drop into an area that holds the heat like a hot box, Zealand-Hale-Willey Range. Heading to Zealand is no big deal, easy trek from Guyot, I stepped on the wooded summit at 8:40AM. I then dropped down to the Zealand Falls Hut hoping for baked goods, no dice! I filled up my water and Gatorade and started the out and back of Hale along the Lend-A-Hand Trail, the one part of the day I was dreading, especially since I was craving different food than what was in my pack. It felt like a slog but I made good time to the summit arriving at 10:33AM before backtracking to the hut and arriving just as the baked goods were put out, perfect timing! I stuffed my face with two iced cinnamon rolls, maple bread, cookies, and purchased some jerky from the hut croo.
- Feeling refreshed and energized I zoomed my way up the A-Z Trail to the Willey Range before slowing down again as afternoon hit and the heat started becoming a factor, Tom (12:44PM), Field (1:18PM), Willey (1:51PM). I throttled down across the ridge and conserved my energy, I was able to send a text out to Todd saying I'll be down to Crawford Notch at 3:15PM.
- 3:15 PM - 3:30 PM, Crawford Notch. Todd had a chair set up, a cooler with cold water and Gatorade + soda + iced coffee. Food, more specifically carb loaded foods! I stuffed my face, drank a bunch, switched from my unlta-light Osprey Rev 6 pack to my Nathan's running vest.
- 3:30PM, Webster-Jackson Trail to Mount Jackson, it's oppressively hot out, I dunk my head at the water crossing and pour water over my whole body, instantly cooling off and feeling better. Todd supplies me with salt and electrolyte tablets to be proactive about cramps and bonking, I've never taken either of them before but they must have worked because I never felt like I was going to fold like a cheap suit.
- Mount Jackson, 4:49PM, from here we travel the Webster Cliff Trail to Mizpah hut for reloading water and Gatorade before the steep climb up to Mount Pierce (5:42PM).
- Now it's above treeline the whole way, and what a later afternoon it is in the Alpine Zone, nice temps and a nice breeze. I'm on trails I consider my backyard, time to enjoy the quiet trek through the Presidential Range as the sun slowly fades.
- 6:15PM - Mount Eisenhower, 7:11PM - Mount Monroe. We make it to Lakes of the Clouds Hut and refill and refuel. Time for the last big climb up to the rock pile.
- We time the hike up and down the flanks of Mount Washington perfectly, catching the "Golden Hour" on both sides of the summit cone. As the sun drops everything around us starts glistening in gold. It's a ghost town on the summit upon our arrival at 7:59PM. Twenty one down, three to go!
- We catch an amazing sunset passing below Mount Clay on the way to Mount Jefferson, reaching the summit at 9:05PM. From the summit we can see fireworks being set off from two towns to our west, maybe Littleton and Lancaster.
- Headlamps back on for the final two peaks over the odd sized boulders of the Northern Presidential Range. Thank goodness for being lucky enough to be blessed with extremely good balance as I've now been on my feet for over 24 hours!
- 10:06PM - Mount Adams, one more down and up and almost two hours to do it in. Feeling refreshed we made great time over to Madison's summit making it there at 10:45PM (22 hours and 45 minutes since leaving Flume's summit). We turn off the headlamps and look down on Berlin and Gorham and across at the dark outline of the range, we could have stayed there forever as the weather was absolutely perfect.
- After ten minutes we head down to Madison Springs Hut, refill water and Gatorade and wake up the A.T. thru-hikers sleeping on the floor before heading down Valley Way. We made good time descending, even jogging the final two miles once the trail transitioned from rocks, roots, and mud to a nice soft dirt track. 12:24AM, Appalachia, finally off my feet after 27 hours since leaving Lincoln Woods trailhead!
- It was an incredible night-day-night in the White Mountains. I hydrated and fueled extremely well and my body held up extremely well. Huge thanks to my small support crew, Todd on trail duty, helping pace me through the Presi's and making sure I stayed far ahead of any issues by giving me salt and electrolyte tablets, a caffeine gel, and yummy pumpkin bread and crumb cake along the way. Also, a big thanks to my friend Ashley, who house and dog-sat Sarge, taking him on a hike of North and South Twin, 4K peaks number 36 & 37 for him, YAY SARGE!!! :)
- As for how I feel about what I was able to accomplish, I feel really lucky to be able to see sunrise and sunset, to push myself physically while taking in every moment and thoroughly enjoying myself. The White Mountains are a wonderful area rich in history and I do not do these hikes/runs for FKT purposes or recognition, I just really enjoy being out on the trails all day making memories. :)

Map of Route

Elevation over distance profile

Garfield Spring

South Twin Mountain

Dawn from the Twin Range

Presidential Range

Sunrise from the North Twin Spur

Fireball in the sky, it's going to be a hot one!

Bondcliff / Twinway junction

Bondcliff

Bondcliff Ridge

West Bond and Hellgate Ravine

Twinway passing by Zeacliff

Zealand Pond

16 down 8 to go. Mount Willey summit

Presidential Range as seen from Mount Jackson

Eisenhower, Monroe, Washington

Mount Pierce from Mount Eisenhower Loop

Monroe through Jefferson as seen from Mount Eisenhower

Presidential Range

Red Pond and the intersecting trails north of Mount Eisenhower

Heading north along the oldest maintain trail in the United States, Crawford Path

Lil' Monroe and Mount Monroe with Washington looming large behind them

Shadows creeping over the Dry River Valley

Lakes of the Clouds and Mount Washington

High on the Crawford Path looking back at where I've come since midnight!

Southern Presidential Range

Todd on Washington!

The Golden Hour along the Cog Railway

Northern Presidential Range. Yes that white spot that is a snowfield lingering below Mount Jefferson along the Six Husbands Trail above Jefferson's "knee."