Hiking in the White Mountains: Mount Jefferson

Showing posts with label Mount Jefferson. Show all posts

Sarge's 50th Summit of Mount Washington

1/28/24

Cog Railway: 3.0 miles / Gulfside Trail: 2.5 miles / Mount Jefferson Loop: 0.6 miles / Gulfside Trail: 1.5 miles / Jewell Trail: 3.0 miles

Total Miles: 10.7 (4,950' elevation gained)

Trip Report:

- Sarge had been waiting about two months to get Rockpile #50 and Sunday he was rewarded for his patience. Temperatures were mild above treeline, mid to high twenties which is quite warm for late January, and the wind was nonexistent. To add to our good fortune, we were treated with undercast, so it was a "unicorn' type of day in the alpine zone.

- We took the express way up to the summit, the Cog Railway Path, it's a steady steep climb along an open swath that parallels the tracks over an average grade around 25%.

- At Marshfield Station I put on my microspikes and let Sarge set the pace as we made out way up the packed styrofoam snow that had a light dusting over it making for ideal winter conditions.

Sarge at Marshfield Station waiting for me to put my spikes on

Looks gloomy as we head up but we know what waits above the clouds!

Break time at Jacob's Ladder.

- Past Jacob's ladder we hustled by the two steep no fall zones, they were easily navigated, but a few more good dumps of snow and a melt/freeze pattern could change that.

- Once past the steeps we enjoyed the last mile taking in the undercast views as we made our way to the summit.

Sarge waits for daddy to catch up

Undercast to the west of us

Sarge hiking up Mount Washington's summit cone with Mount Jefferson behind him

Sarge takes in the view of the North Presidential Range

Clay, Jefferson, Adams, Madison (left to right)

Pemi Wilderness rising above the clouds

Observation deck and summit tower

#50!

Carter Range floating above the clouds

Summit deck Sarge!

- Our original plan was to head back down the Cog but we decided to switch it up and take the longer/easier way via the Jewell Trail. As we made our way over to the Jewell Trail junction the weather was too nice to head back down so we continued on.

Sarge scopes out the Jewell Trail with Jacob's Ladder, Lakes of the Clouds Hut, and Mount Monroe behind him

- It was just past 9AM and there wasn't a hint of wind, the clouds were not moving down on us, and the storm was still several hours out so we decided an out and back of Mount Jefferson was in order.

- From the junction we dropped toward the Clay Col and that is when Sarge took off running, ahead of him he saw familiar faces, Corey and Ashley, who were out enjoying the mint conditions.

- After chatting with them we took off towards Jefferson making our way up to Monticello Lawn and eventually to the summit.

Sarge with Clay and Washington behind him

Monticello Lawn

Sarge making his way up to Mount Jefferson

Carter Range off in the distance

Sarge just below the summit of Mount Jefferson

Sarge on the summit!

- Unfortunately, it was time to head home, so we backtracked to the Jewell junction, banged a right, and slowly made our way back to treeline soaking in all the views as we both knew that days like this are few and far between when it comes to winter in the White Mountains

One happy Dood!

Sea of clouds. Eisenhower to the immediate left, far left in the back is Carrigain, Willey is to the right, and the peaks that make up the Pemi make up the backdrop

Treeline on Jewell Trail

- So how does Sarge feel about #50? No idea, he's just a dog! But he loves every minute on trail sniffing, eating snow, rolling in snow, waiting for me!

End of Summer Sarge & Washington #260

9/15/23

Caps Ridge Trail: 5.0 miles, 2,800' elevation gained

- Sarge spent the end of summer working on his four-season grid, he already finished the winter 4K list in 2021 but since then I haven't focused on the peaks he had left in spring (5), summer (12), and fall (1). Most of the summer ones he had left were not the most exciting peaks and with this being the summer of rain I had no interest in taking him on any water-logged trails. Instead, Sarge spent the summer accompanying me up the rockpile on Dood friendly days and running the Great Glen Trails on hot and humid days.

- One of the mountains on the summer list he had not done yet was Jefferson, so a week before the end of summer on a cool and crisp morning we headed up the Caps Ridge Trail.

- Sarge has done this trail before and with many miles put on his paw pads up and down Lion Head and Tucks this summer I had no worries he would easily hop up and down just like he had a few years back.

- Sarge and I usually get a first light start but on this weekday we got a leisurely start at 9:30AM. Sarge easily made his way up to the pothole rock which is a big boulder with glacial potholes that affords a stunning view of the Ridge of the Caps.

Sarge poses for a picture at Pothole Rock with the Ridge of the Caps rising above him

- From the outlook we quickly made our way to treeline and started up the three Caps. At the first Cap Sarge needed one boost but had no problems with the second and third Cap. Between the Caps we caught up to a few groups of early morning starters, one of which had a Dood too.

Sarge just before tackling the first Cap

- Once above all the Caps we ran into a few more groups before having the last half mile and summit to ourselves.

Sarge living the dream with the Ridge of the Caps below him

Mount Clay, Washington, and Monroe in view as Sarge heads up the summit cone

Sarge on the summit of Mount Jefferson

- After taking a few pics and eating some treats we rock hopped back down the mountain finishing just before 11:30AM and home by 12PM for a yummy Pup Cup for Sarge!

Sarge enjoying the views as we head back down the Caps Ridge Trail

The wind would kick up at times and blow Sarge's Dumbo ears round and round

Another picture at Pothole Rock

Post hike pup cup!

Mount Washington w/Sarge

9/26, 9/28, 10/3, 10/5

Tuckerman Ravine Trail: 8.4 miles (4,250' elevation gained)

- In late September and early Octobers Sarge enjoyed a few mornings and afternoons on the Rockpile when the weather was not too hot for Sarge as we had an early fall heatwave for a few days.

- The trails have become very quiet midweek as we have only seen a handful of hikers on the two hikes when we didn't start at first light. When we start at dawn we see not a soul until passing by Hermit Lake on the way down.

- There is still plenty of water for Sarge to cool off in up until the last half mile so I never have to worry about him not staying cool and he gets plenty of yummy treats on the way up and down.

- Sarge also joined in as I hiked Washington for the 260 time and then some. Hopefully we can get in one or two more Washington summits before the trails get icy.

Sarge passing by Lunch Rocks on his way to the falls

Sarge at the Southside / Crawford Path Junction. Mount Monroe in view

Sarge at the floor of Tuckerman Ravine early in the morning. Moon still visible

Sarge enjoying the clouds clearing off above the headwall

Sarge poses with Boott Spur in view

Sarge at the junction of Tuckerman Ravine and Lion Head trails

Sarge makes his way toward first bridge

Above Tuckerman with Lion Haad in view

Happy Dood!

Tuckerman Junction

Cooling off at Lunch Rocks

10/6/23 Mount Tecumseh: 4.6 miles (2,350' elevation gained)

- The only peak Sarge had left to finish his fall 4K's was Mount Tecumseh. One a trip down to RI to visit my parents we enjoyed a quick hike up and down the mountain before the rain came.

- Sarge was full of energy so I had to reel him in until he finally started to slow down to a normal pace as we gained the ridge. IT was a quiet Friday morning on the trail as we saw only one other hiker about halfway up and then nobody until we got back to the parking lot at 8:30AM.

- Colors were still changing down low and just past their peak up high. We were stuck in a cloud so no foliage photos from the summit outlook of the Tripyramids and Osceola's were taking during this quick jaunt.

- Sarge has now completed the 4K list in fall and winter, so we know wait until spring for the pup to continue peak-bagging.

Sarge waiting for me on a leaf blanketed trail

The great stone staircase that Jeremy Clark has constructed over the last dozen years helps keep this heavily used trail from becoming an eroded mess. Incredible craftsmanship!

Sarge goes for "swims" at the highest water crossing

Sign says it all!

Great Castle of Kings

Date of Hike: 8/6/23

Pinkham B Road 1.5 miles / Pine Link Trail: 3.5 miles / Watson Path: 0.3 miles / Osgood Trail: 0.5 miles / Star Lake Trail: 0.3 miles / Buttress Trail: 1.9 miles / Six Husbands Trail: 0.5 miles / Great Gulf Trail: 2.9 miles / Gulfside Trail: 0.4 miles / Nelson Crag Trail: 0.9 miles / Alpine Garden Trail: 0.4 miles / Wamsutta: 1.7 miles / Six Husbands Trail: 2.4 miles / Castle Trail: 1.5 miles / The Link: 0.6 miles / Castle Ravine Trail: 1.0 miles / Randolph Path: 0.7 miles / Gray Knob Trail: 1.2 miles / Lowe's Path: 1.5 miles / Star Lake Trail: 1.0 miles / Airline Cutoff: 0.2 miles / Airline: 0.3 miles / Chemin Des Dames: 0.4 miles / King Ravine Trail: 0.9 miles / Gulfside Trail: 0.3 miles / Osgood Trail: 1.0 miles / Daniel Webster Scout Trail: 3.3 miles / Hayes-Copp Ski Trail: 1.0 miles

Total Miles: 32.1 (16,250' elevation gained)

Elevation Over Distance Profile

Trip Report

- On Sunday morning I headed out to do a recon run of the MMD route I created for my friends to hike/run the following weekend. My goal for the day was to hike at a solid clip and run a few sections without having to do the dreaded one/two steps up and stop during the last steep bursts up Castle and King ravines during the back end of the route as I had done the previous two times on similar MMD routes in 2013 and 2017.

- 5:20AM, I started out with a nice warmup run up Pinkham B Road to the Pine Link Trail. Once on Pine Link Trail I settled into a good hiking clip up a mix of moderate and short steep grades as I gained elevation on the way to the junction with Howker Ridge Trail. Pine Link and Howker Ridge coincide for a few tenths of a mile over one of the "Howks" before Pine Link splits off and heads above treeline where it crosses paths with Watson Path 0.3 miles below the summit of Mount Madison.

- There was a chill to the air early Sunday morning so I put on my Patagonia Houdini jacket and gloves to stay warm and hooked onto Watson Path and into the clouds and high winds, battling my way up the summit cone to Mount Madison, 7:07AM. I tagged the summit marker before booking it down to Madison Spring Hut to refill my water and prepare my gear before dropping down into the Great Gulf Wilderness.

Heading up Pine Link Trail

Looking up to Mount Madison from one of the "Howks"

Pine Link Trail is steep and rocky and a little grown in near treeline

Pine Link/Watson Path trail junction, below the clouds and in the sun

0.3 miles later, stuck in a cloud on the summit of Mount Madison

Descending to Madison Spring Hut and out of the clouds with Mount Adams blanketed in thick clouds

- From Madison Spring Hut I took the Star Lake Trail for and easy 0.3 miles until branching off onto the Buttress Trail. The first half mile of Buttress was a mix of rock hopping out in the open and tight overgrown scrub sections where you could barely see your feet, my pace slowed considerably through this section as to not get tripped up on rocks and roots hidden out of view under my feet.

- Once past the overgrown section the trail became a breeze with good footing down to the open talus field. I picked up my pace and scooted down the trail, after a few tenths of a mile my knee started to ache and become sore from my Grand Canyon injury back in May, so I throttled down knowing I had a long day ahead of me.

Entering the Great Gulf Wilderness via the Buttress Trail

Trail is a little overgrown in spots up high

Beautiful view of the Great Gulf, Jefferson's knee, and Jefferson Ravine from the lower talus field

- At the bottom of the Buttress Trail I banged a left onto the Six Husbands Trail for 0.5 miles to the intersection of Great Gulf and Wamsutta trails, bearing a right on the Great Gulf Trail.

- Great Gulf Trail is a remote and wild trail with moderate grades until reaching Spaulding Lake as it passes by numerous cascades and falls, with Weetamoo Falls being the most spectacular of them all.

- I made quick work of the two miles to Spaulding Lake and was presently surprised by some recent trail work that had been done up to and beyond Spaulding Lake. In previous years I would have wet feet from flooded over sections of trail even during the driest of summers, but my feet stayed dry on this day, a big win!

- Once past Spaulding Lake I climbed up the Great Gulf headwall and back into the clouds. The bottom part of the headwall basically shoots straight up a waterfall before breaking open into a huge boulder and scree field to the top. Cairns and blazes are few and far between over the last half mile, lucky for me I have about a dozen hikes through here under my belt, so I never wander too far off the trail.

- As soon as I topped out of the Great Gulf I got blasted with high winds and low visibility, so I rocked hopped my way up to Mount Washington's summit, 9:30AM, where I headed inside to buy a frosted slice of pound cake and a Powerade and take a quick break to warm up before heading back out into the wind.

Cascade along the Great Gulf Trail

Weetamoo Falls

Spaulding Lake

Lower section of the headwall goes straight up boulders and small waterfalls

Great Gulf Wilderness

Heading up the steep headwall

- I left the comfort of the observatory building back into the wind and low visibility down the Nelson Crag Trail. After crossing the Auto Road I ran into my friend Todd who had come up Huntington Ravine, we chatted for a few seconds or more like shouted from the high winds, before heading our separate ways. The clouds started to break soon after crossing over Ball Crag down to the Huntington Ravine Trail junction where I saw Patrick, Mount Washington State Park Supervisor, knocking over rogue cairns at the junction.

- Soon thereafter I made it to the Alpine Garden junction, I felt like I was in a whole different world from where I was ten minutes ago, I was now in the sun so I ditched my Houdini jacket and gloves for good as I made my way down the Alpine Garden Trail across the Auto Road to the Wamsutta Trail.

- The first 0.25 miles of the Wamsutta Trail was pretty awful, first there was stunted dwarf spruce ankle high obscuring the trail followed by a few sections of four to eight feet high spruce through narrow and overgrown trail hiding all booby traps. This was oddly mixed in with beautiful and easy above treeline hiking before dropping into the woods where recent trail work made the last mile plus a great descent back to the floor of the Great Gulf.

Clouds quickly blowing off as I descended from Ball Crag

Looking down the Neslon Crag Trail with the Wildcat Range to the east

Alpine Garden Trail with clouds clearing off of Mount Jefferson, Adams, and Madison

Mount Washington Auto Road

Wamsutta Trail Junction

Where I will be heading up next, Mount Jefferson's knee

Wamsutta Trail, scratchy in places up top, beautiful down low

- Now it was time for another steep ascent up the wild and rugged Six Husbands Trail, highlighted by perfectly placed ladder steps by enormous overhanging boulders, it's not for the faint of heart but all the rocks were dry and grippy on this day making for easy albeit slow passage up to Jefferson's knee.

- Before scurrying up the ladders I took a nice little break to eat some snack foods, changing it up from my gels, shot blocks, and protein bars. I also applied sun block as the clouds had blown off and I was about to be in the sun for most of the next several hours.

- Once slogging my way up the ladders I was rewarded with a nice breeze and great views as I strolled my way up to the summit of Mount Jefferson, 11:45AM. I did not stay too long on the summit of Jefferson as it was quite crowded and I had a long way to go. I will say other than Madison Spring Hut and Jefferson's summit I had hardly seen anyone on trail to this point, zero on Pine Link and Buttress, four on Great Gulf, a couple on Nelson Crag, zero on Wamsutta, three on Six Husbands.

Crossing the West Branch Peabody River at the beginning of the Six Husbands Trail

Look at that perfectly placed ladder!

Looking down from where I came earlier this morning along the Buttress Trail. The trail crosses the tauls field at the bottom.

Enjoying the great view as I make my way to Jefferson's summit

- From the summit of Jefferson I enjoyed the open-air descent of the Castellated Ridge where I could spy below me my next steep ascent out of Castle Ravine. To get there I had to pass through crags and pillars that make up the castles before once again dropping below treeline to the trail junction with The Link. This section of The Link drops steeply 0.6 miles over moss covered rocks and roots until reaching to floor of the Castle Ravine, while it is slow going down to the Castle Ravine Trail junction, it does have a magical forest feel to it and you'll rarely see a soul along it.

- Time for another steep burst and to see if I had been correctly pacing myself for the day to avoid the dreaded one and two step and stop fatigue. Before heading up I refilled my bladder in Castle Brook and had some cookies for a sugar rush before plodding my way up Castle Ravine.

- It's a slippery and steep trail that passes by Roof Rock before breaking out into the talus field. Somehow on the lower talus field I missed a sharp right turn back into the woods and dead ended a hundred feet above the missed turn. I looked back down and saw my mistake and quickly cut over to where I needed to be and made my way up and out of Castle Ravine to Edmands Col while keeping up a solid hiking pace, victory!

Descending the Castle Trail

Castle Ravine, Castellated Ridge, and Mount Jefferson

Castle Ravine

The Link

Roof Rock and one sad looking weather warning / alpine zone sign

Ascending Castle Ravine

Castle Ravine

- Next up was the only part of the route I created that I was not too thrilled about, a pretty pointless down and up to Mount Adams via Randolph Path, Gray Knob Trail, and Lowe's Path. While these three sections of trail are beautiful, it was just the thought of meandering up to Mount Adams in the mist of all these steep ascents that took the wind out of me. Luckily the footing over these 3.5 miles was tame compared to just about everything else so I went into cruise control as I made my way to treeline and back in the woods just to immediately pop back up above it.

- Winds were still kicking as I crossed by Thunderstorm Junction and up to Mount Adam's summit, 2:20PM, it felt quite refreshing but it would not last as I dropped down Star Lake Trail and out of the wind and in the sun making for the hottest part of the day, but all things considered temps were pretty much perfect outside of this spot and the summit cones of Madison and Washington early in the morning.

- When I reached Madison Spring Hut I refueled, relaxed, and prepared my gear before the final big push of the day.

On Randolph Path looking back at Mount Jefferson

Hiking along the Gray Knob Trail

Above treeline on Lowe's Path looking west

Skirting around a sub peak of Mount Adams, Sam Adams

Thunderstorm Junction

Star Lake and Mount Madison as seen from Mount Adams

Mount Washington and Jefferson

Star Lake

- From Madison Spring Hut I made my way over to Durand Ridge and Chemin Des Dames via Airline Cutoff and Airline. Chemin Des Dames, named after a road in France where three battles were fought during Word War I, the trail drops 0.4 miles and 800 feet to the floor of King Ravine. It is a mix a loose rock up high and a boulder field down low, it's slow going but gets you where you need to go in short order. I made sure to descend carefully as I was on mile 25 and 13,000' of elevation gain in and did not want to have a misstep this late in the day.

- After carefully picking my way down it was time for the last steep burst of the day, 0.9 miles and 1,400' topping out above the Gateway. I skipped the side trails, Subway and Ice Caves, and stayed on the trail proper, although I highly recommend these alternate routes that wind through boulder caves with some thrilling lemon squeezer sections.

- I was slowly making my way up the headwall of King Ravine, I had paced well all day and avoided the one/two step stop, just slow hiking straight up as I approached the Gateway. About two thirds of the way I stopped to snap a picture when my leg slipped and I banged my lower leg off a rock, creating a decent gash that looked nasty but is par for the course on big mile big elevation days. Better than the usual trip and falls that happen on days like these plus my knee which had been aching earlier in the day was fine so only having a gash on my leg is a win-win in my mind!

- After cutting my leg I got a shot of adrenaline and quickly scooted up past the Gateway and ran down to the Osgood Trail Junction to take my last break of the day and eat the rest of my cookies and Cheez-Its for the final run out.

Durand Ridge along the Airline

Time for a steep drop down Chemin Des Dames

King Ravine from Chemin Des Dames

Looking up at the King Ravine trail, it heads up the talus fields

Heading through the Gateway

Looking back down King Ravine as I top out

Madison Spring Hut and the summit cone of Mount Madison

- My final short climb of the day up Osgood Trail to Mount Madison's summit was much different than this morning, I was not in a cloud, the temp had risen considerably, and the wind had died down making for an easy summit, 4PM. There was no lingering around on the summit, I saved my energy all day so I could move quickly down the Osgood Trail, Daniel Webster Scout Trail, and Hayes-Copp Ski Trail back to my Jeep. The rocks were dry making for easy rock hopping with careful foot placement to not twist an ankle, never having heavy or forceful down steps, I refer to it as tap dancing down a mountain.

- Views were outstanding as I descended Osgood Ridge and onto Webster Scout Trail curving around the north shoulder of the ridge before finally saying goodbye to the alpine zone and back into the woods for the final three miles.

- It was a quick and quiet run back to the Barnes Field, I dunked my head at any of the small streams to cool off and made it back down at 5:10PM, 11 hours and 50 minutes after starting the day. I chugged Gatorade and an iced coffee before catching my breath and making the long drive home, all of five minutes back to my house in Gorham.

- What an adventurous day in and out of the Great Gulf and Castle and King ravines, it was brutally awesome, and I hope my friends who will be hiking/running it this weekend will have a great day out there too!