Hiking in the White Mountains: Ultra Marathon

Showing posts with label Ultra Marathon. Show all posts

Very APE Presi

Date of Hike : 8/28/21

Airline: 4.3 miles / Lowe's Path & Israel Ridge Trail: 0.3 miles / Gulfside Trail: 4.1 miles / Westside 0.9 miles / Crawford Path: 2.9 miles / Mount Eisenhower Trail: 2.1 miles / Dry River Cutoff: 1.7 miles / Mount Clinton Trail: 0.5 miles / Webster-Cliff Trail: 0.9 miles / Crawford Path: 1.2 miles / Mount Eisenhower Loop: 0.8 miles / Crawford Path: 1.4 miles / Mount Monroe Loop: 0.7 miles / Crawford Path: 1.5 miles / Gulfside Trail: 1.1 miles / Mount Clay Loop: 1.2 miles / Gulfside Trail: 0.7 miles / Mount Jefferson Loop: 0.7 miles / Gulfside Trail: 2.4 miles / Osgood Trail: 1.0 miles / Valley Way: 3.8 miles

Total Miles: 34.2 (13,300' elevation gained)

Trip Report:

- This summer has been very warm and humid above treeline along with low wind speeds, directly resulting in lower motivation and enthusiasm to get out and spend several miles roaming around in the alpine zone. Luckily, the humidity finally broke on Friday and Saturday setting up a perfect day to do the lazy runner Double Presi Traverse which includes all the sights and sounds of a double with twenty percent less effort!

- The route for the day was to bag Mount Adams first, bypass all the peaks as I headed south before dropping down into and out of the Dry River Wilderness until reaching Mizpah Hut, then hitting up Pierce, Eisenhower, and the rest of the gang on the way back north. Hence, the A-P-E in the Very APE Presi.

- I arrived at Appalachia just before 5:45AM to a full parking lot, thankfully I was able to score the first spot outside the lot and quickly got my gear ready before taking off up the Airline Trail.

- Airline can be broken up into four sections, the first 1.5 miles is an easy grade with good footing through open hardwoods, very beautiful during October foliage. After 1.5 miles the woods start to close in while transitioning to softwoods, not beautiful - gangly pines, the trail also becomes steep and extremely rugged for the next mile until just before reaching treeline. Next up is the section of the small knifes edge of Durand Ridge which affords excellent views into King Ravine. Finally, the last half mile Airline blends into the summit mass of Mount Adams over the usual boulder terrain of the northern Presidential Range.

- Since I got an early start the trail was extremely quiet, I only saw three hikers on the way up to Adams and made sure to enjoy the lack of people as I knew it would only be a matter of time before I was swimming by schools of hikers.

- Once past Adams I hooked onto the Gulfside Trail and cruised around the summits of Jefferson and Clay, under overcast skies, temps around fifty with a nice breeze, still along very quiet trails, so far so good!

- However, the quiet and peaceful trails would soon come to a crashing end, as I was curving below the summit cone on the Westside Trail I could see a line of hikers shuffling their way up Crawford Path. After seeing about ten hikers over the first ten miles I probably passed three dozen in the one mile down to Lakes of the Clouds Hut. At the hut I quickly filled up my water and went on my way along the Crawford Path around Mount Monroe towards Mount Eisenhower, it was already busy here too, which was somewhat surprising, the good news was soon enough I'd be back to peace and quiet.

- Before reaching Mount Eisenhower I dropped off the Crawford Path into the Dry River Wilderness. Over the next four miles I would be completely alone on the Mount Eisenhower, Dry River Cutoff, and Mount Clinton trails. Seldom used, these trails have not been worn down to rock and show no signs of erosion, they are over cushiony dirt, fallen pine needles, old bog bridges, a little mud, and a little overgrown.

- I made good time running down the Mount Eisenhower Trail then quick hiking the Dry River Cutoff and Mount Clinton trails up to Mizpah Spring Hut, arriving at 10:45AM, five hours after I left Appalachia. It was quiet at the hut so I took a short break to eat and refill my water before the steep burst up to Mount Pierce's summit.

- Once on the summit I was back on popular trails, passing by dozens upon dozens of hikers and a few runners. A few people were really interested in what I was up to but they all quickly become confused when I tried describing the route and pointing things out, so I just gave up and said I'm doing the traverse.

- Some other observations from the hike between Pierce and Washington. Yes, the Crawford Path and loop trails to the peaks are more crowded than ever, between new people to hiking, backpackers, thru-hikers, and trail runners there is not much of a reprieve from the masses but 99% percent of the people are in a great mood and happy to greet you. However the summit of Mount Washington was tough to be on when I quickly passed through just before 1PM. People swarming everywhere (see pic below). To make things worse there were a couple of people smoking cigarettes on the summit, pretty gross. Thankfully I restocked on water at Lakes of the Clouds so I there was no need to stop so I zoomed on off the summit, unfortunately I caught the smelly coal train chugging up to the summit as I crossed the tracks.

- After passing the Cog, I scooted up and over Clay and Jefferson enjoying comfortable temps in the mid fifties along the way, there was no wind but no humidity as well making for easy hiking and running. Almost everyone I saw was in long sleeves and light gloves, there were only a handful of people in shorts and tshirts, not too many locals out and about today, as we are in shorts and T's between mid April and October when the temps are above forty five degrees!

- Since I summited Adams in the morning I cruised around the summit cone down to Madison Springs Hut before my last climb of the day to Mount Madison arriving just after 3PM. I took a break here to finish off the last of my electrolyte drink, stuff my face with chocolate, snap some pics, and talk to a couple of guys doing a multi day south - north traverse staying at the huts. I was pretty hungry so I was jealous thinking of the hut dinner and desserts they were going to get this evening.

- The trip back down Valley Way to Appalachia was uneventful as usual, I lucked out as it started to rain as I hit treeline, but after about a mile the rain stopped and the trails were dry making the last three miles easy as I finished just at 4PM about 10 hours and 15 minutes after I started.

- Back at the Jeep I cleaned myself off, changed into dry clothes, and downed some ice cold water before heading home to hang out with Sarge. :)

Elevation over distance profile

Airline, steep and rugged heading up to treeline

Madison Spring Hut and the summit cone of Mount Madison early in the morning

Star Lake and Mount Madison as seen from Mount Adams

Tiny bit of undercast in the Great Gulf below Jefferson and Washington

Some rays of sun breaking through and shining over the Carter-Moriah range

Along the Gulfside Trail heading to Mount Jefferson

Gulfside Trail with Mount Clay in view

View of the Cog Railway and the southern Presidential Range from the shoulder of Mount Clay

North Presidential Range (Jefferson, Adams, Madison)

On the Crawford Path approaching Lakes of the Clouds with Mount Monroe in view

Lakes of the Clouds and Mount Washington

View from the Mount Monroe Loop Junction

Heading towards Mount Eisenhower

Mount Eisenhower Trail

Dry River Cutoff

Dry River Cutoff and Mount Clinton Trail

Reaching Mizpah Spring Hut

Mizpah Spring Hut

Summit of Mount Pierce looking north to Eisenhower

Looking back at Mount Pierce from the Mount Eisenhower Loop

View from the summit of Mount Eisenhower

Red Pond and the diverging paths at the bottom of Eisenhower's summit cone

Presidential Lawn AKA Franklin Flats between near Mount Franklin

Looking south from Mount Franklin

Dry River Valley

Lil' Monroe, Monroe, and Washington

Monroe as seen from Lil' Monroe

Washington from Monroe's summit

Busy afternoon on the rockpile!

Choo Choo!

Three trains heading down the tracks in the early afternoon

Looking at Jefferson from Mount Clay Loop

Monticello Lawn - Clay and Washington

Mount Adams from Mount Jefferson Loop

Thunderstorm Junction

Madison Spring Hut from Osgood Trail

Adams and Washington from Mount Madison's summit

Tiny Pine Mountain and the town of Gorham, home of Sgt. Pepper!

Trails taken, Appalachia through Dry River Wilderness

Trails taken, Mizpah Hut back to Appalachia

Signs spotted along the trek

GW's Mad Isolated Owl . . . Madison, Washington, Isolation, Owl's Head Traverse

Date of Hike: 9/21/19

Valley Way: 3.8 miles / Appalachian Trail: 7.0 miles / Davis Path: 15.0 miles / Notch Inn Cutoff: 0.7 miles / Nancy Pond Trail: 6.0 miles / Carrigain Notch Trail: 1.5 miles / Wilderness Trail: 3.5 miles / Abandoned Wilderness Trail: 0.5 miles / Bondcliff Trail: 1.9 miles / Franconia Falls & Fisherman's Path: 2.0 miles / Lincoln Brook Trail: 2.1 miles / Brutus Bushwhack: 0.7 miles / Owl's Head Path: 1.8 miles / Lincoln Brook Trail: 2.5 miles / Black Pond Bushwhack & Trail: 2.0 miles / Lincoln Woods Trail: 2.0 miles
Total Miles: 53 miles (13,838 feet elevation gained)

Trip Report:
- It doesn't get much better than spending sunrise to sunset traveling through the spine of the White Mountains, fifty plus miles filled with rich history. Above treeline across the Appalachian Trail, descending back into the trees along the Davis Path to 302. Heading by the old site of Lucy Mill on the way to Norcross Pond. Dropping into the Pemigewasset Wilderness over the old railroad grades along Nancy Pond, Carrigain Notch and Wilderness trails from the J.E. Henry's days. Cruising through the wilderness with not another person seen for miles and miles before finally making my way over to Owl's Head via the deteriorating Fisherman's Path, Lincoln Brook, and Brutus Bushwhack, followed by an exhilarating/scary bear encounter on the way back to civilization!

- Started off at 4:50AM from Appalachia along the Valley Way passing by two dozen hikers on my way up to Madison Spring Hut and another dozen coming down from the summit cone as I made my way to Mount Madison. I was amazed about seeing this many people on trail at such an early hour in September, definitely shows the explosion in hiking/trail runners/weeble wobbles in the past couple of years.
- Thick fog and clouds blanketed everything above 4,500 feet so no spectacular sunrise from Mount Madison unfortunately. Fortunately, once I left Madison Spring Hut I was ahead of the hiking bubble and cruised across the Appalachian Trail to Washington with the trails all to myself. I made it to the summit of Washington just after 8AM with it all to myself.
- Next up, I dropped down to the Davis Path and made the long hike towards Isolation and then past it to Route 302. Clouds broke off quickly as I made my way past the Southside Trail junction following my favorite section of cairn construction above treeline in the White Mountains towards Boott Spur.
- Continuing along the Davis Path I headed to treeline passing by a few hikers before having the trail all to myself again over to Mount Isolation. From Isolation the Davis Path takes on a wild and remote feel as it passes by Mount Davis and Giant Stairs. Once past Stairs I started seeing a couple of hikers here and there and then I saw about fifty from Mount Crawford the Davis Path trailhead.
- 25 miles and just over 7 hours later I was filtering water from the Sacco River before walking across 302, by the Notchland Inn, and taking a spur trail from the inn through the woods over to the Nancy Pond Trail. It was now after 12PM and it was hot and humid, felt like the start of summer instead of the end.
- The hike up to Nancy Cascade was pretty quiet only seeing a handful of hikers, once past the cascade I would be all alone again for the next 10 miles. The hike above the cascade is a very steep half mile burst, it was a grind but well worth it for the view from Norcross Pond.
- At the edge of the pond is an outlet with an amazing view looking down into the Pemigewasset Wilderness, I was able to see most of the twenty + miles of my remaining route from this spot.
- Now came for the highlight of the day, I had not dropped down the sweet "ramp" of the old railroad grade to Stillwater Junction from Norcross this year so I was excited to be back on it. As always it did not disappoint with some early season foliage here and there as I passed Camp 19, the fern tunnel, and Desolation on my way into the valley. I filtered water at Stillwater and took a short break before heading on.
- Past Stillwater I continued onto the Wilderness Trail past Camp 20 as I jogged over to the old site of Trestle #17 / suspension bridge of the East Branch Pemigewasset River. I easily rock hopped across the river as the water levels were the lowest I've ever seen them. From here I strolled along a half mile section of the abandoned Wilderness Trail to the Black Brook Trestle before making my way to Camp 16 onto what is now the lower end of the Bondcliff Trail along the railroad grade.
- I was pretty beat up at this moment, 38 miles and just over 10 hours into my "run." I hoped to be jogging this stretch but the warm temps made it a quick hike to the wilderness boundary.
- I crossed over the Franconia Brook footbridge, banged a right onto the Franconia Falls Trail and then at the "End of Trail" sign continued on to the Fisherman's Path bushwhack. The past ten years have taken a toll on sections of this whack, it starts off on a well defined path but sputters out in places half way through before returning to a decently defined albeit narrow path.
- 42 miles and just over 11 hours in I'm on the Lincoln Brook Trail making the approach to the base of Owl's Head. I pass by a few late day hikers on my way to the start of the Brutus Bushwhack.
- At the least water crossing I fill up on water again before one last steep ascent. I slowly hike up the well defined herd path, stopping at one moment to cool myself off from a small runoff before the super steep burst that leaves from a drainage. After 0.7 miles I reach "Brutus Rock," and take a right onto Owl's Head Path, passing by a descending hiker and his dog while moseying up to the ridge followed by a semi jog to the summit of Owl's Head. 45 miles and just under 13 hours in I'm thrilled to be at the summit, now it's time for a nice and calm early evening hike back to Lincoln Woods . . . or so I thought!
- Just before the Owl's Head Path drops from the ridge I hear a hiker, he's banging his poles, he's talking loudly, my first though was sweet - a bear! But as soon as I got to him I knew this wasn't the norm for bear encounters up here, which are they speed off or look at you goofily and waddle away. No, this old male was used to people food from lazy or uninformed hikers/backpackers who leave their packs at the bottom of the slide or improperly hang food. Bad news for me is that I had 45 + miles of wrappers and smeared chocolate on my running vest!
- So I start clapping my hands and talking to the bear, after a minute the other hiker heads towards the summit, initially the bear follows him for a few feet off trail but then he stops turns around and follows me, now on the trail! I start slowly walking down the Owl's Head Path off the ridge, the bear is in step for step with me about ten to twenty feet away. I pick up a downed branch and bang trees every few seconds, when I stop the bear does eventually stop, five feet away each time. I then start walking backwards downhill and when I'm twenty to thirty feet ahead it starts following me, when I turn around and start to hike a little faster the bear makes sure to come back to within five feet of me right away.
- So I make the decision that I will not go down Brutus Bushwhack, I'll head down the slide. Once I reach Brutus Rock, I yell at the bear and bang my branch into the ground and pick up and throw a rock near him, he stops, I'm able to walk backwards without him coming towards me, I get thirty feet of distance between us and knowing I am closing in on the top of the slide with plenty of rocks, plus I'd feel more comfortable in the open space of the slide, I make the sprint down to the top of it. I look back and don't see him running towards me, I continue to the middle, look back and don't see him, I sprint to the lower part of the slide and see the hiker with his dog. I tell him a bear will be coming along and that I'll continue down with him, but this hiker is with the other hiker who I met on the ridge, and says he's going to wait here for him. I had my fill of hanging out with the bear for half a mile so I was not going to stick around to keep talking to a bear until it gets bored and finally goes away.
- From here I jet down the remaining tenth of a mile to the Lincoln Brook Trail and trail run for another mile or so. I catch up with two hikers making their way out, and they told me that a bear took someones pack who left it at the bottom of the slide path! Poor bear, I feel bad for him, especially if he leaves the wilderness and starts dumpster diving, his days will be numbered. As for the experience, not going to lie, it was kind of terrifying at times...
- My adrenaline finally started to drop quickly as I made it to the Black Pond bushwhack, now I was noticing how sore I was from the impromptu trail run, my legs were getting really tight, luckily the small uphill part of the BP BW helped stretch a few things out.
- I turned my headlamp on as I passed by Black Pond as the woods were quickly getting dark. The remaining 2.5 miles to the suspension bridge was quiet and went by semi quickly.
- After 53 miles and 14 hours and 50 minutes, I reached the end as the stars were starting to come out. It was quite the day with a little bit of everything, the way I sum it up . . . it was a perfect bookend to a great summer of rock hopping!