Baxter State Park 2024 . . . Katahdin & The Travelers

Date of Hike: 9/30/24

Hunt Trail: 5.5 miles / Knife Edge: 1.1 miles / Helon Taylor Trail: 3.6 miles / Chimney Pond Trail: 3.5 miles / Dudley Trail: 1.7 miles / Knife Edge: 1.1 miles / Hunt Trail: 1.0 miles / Abol Trail: 3.2 miles / Tote Road: 2.0 miles

Total Miles: 22.7 miles (8,900' elevation gained)

- Every year after Labor Day I start monitoring the weather and keep an eye on any lean-to's that are available at Nesowadnehunk Field in Baxter State Park during the week. This year I hit the jackpot and was able to nab a lean-to during peak foliage for Sunday and Monday. I invited Todd and Nate to join in and luckily Todd was able to get time off from work so I picked him up at 4AM in Jackson, NH and we made the five-hour drive north to Millinocket, ME. We arrived at the Togue Pond Gate just after 9AM and I told the ranger our plan for the day was to head up Baxter before heading over to Neso Field, she gave me a look as if we were a couple of goobers, I assured her that we have done this before but from the interaction she clearly thought we were certified bozos. 

- After entering the park we drove over to Katahdin Stream Campground to do a quick Abol - A.T. loop via a short run along the tote road. Unfortunately, the weather was cloudy and foggy above treeline so there were no views but lucky for us the skies would clear overnight setting up great weather for our annual big day on Baxter.

-  Monday morning we started just before 7AM and cruised up the Hunt Trail to the Baxter Peak. Views were phenomenal early in the morning, crystal clear sightlines with the Owl, Oji, Coe, the Brothers, and Fort to the west as we popped above treeline past the Gateway. 

Todd break above treeline with The Owl behind him

The Owl, OJI, Coe, South and North Brother, Fort

- From Baxter Peak we carefully made our way across the Knife Edge to Pamola Peak. There were a couple of spots in the shade that were a little slick but for the most part it was smooth sailing. The Knife Edge was very quiet as we only saw a couple hikers heading the opposite way. 

Early morning along the Knife Edge

Pamola Peak

- Next we descended Helon Taylor Trail all the way to Roaring Brook Campground. Along the way we passed a couple of dozen hikers heading up enjoying the perfect weather. Views looking down to the valley with all the colors from the leaves were outstanding making for a picturesque run down to Roaring Brook.

Enjoying the alpine zone descent along the Helon Taylor Trail

Looking down towards Basin Ponds (left), Sandy Stream Pond (right) and Turner Mountain range

- At Roaring Brook Campground we signed the trail register and took a short break before we made the 3.5 mile easy trek to Chimney Pond. Along the way we stopped at one of my favorite outlooks at Basin Pond. 

Pano from lower Basin Pond. What a view!

- From Basin Pond we motored on up to Chimney Pond and signed in at the ranger's cabin before hooking onto the Dudley Trail. The trail starts off relatively tame for the first half mile plus as the lower section was rerouted a few years back after a rockslide wiped out a part of the trail. Instead of shooting straight up to Pamola Peak, the trail follows a long sweeping switchback before it rejoins the original trail where it then heads straight up over boulders of all sizes with unbelievable views.

Lower boulder field on the Dundley Trail. South Basin tucked away to the right and Cathedral Ridge and the Saddle in the middle-right

Basin Ponds and some prime foliage at lower elevations of the Turner Mountain range

Index Rock

Going up and looking back down at Index Rock

- Quiet time on the trails was over as we summited Pamola Peak for the second time. We were greeted with an enthusiastic, "No Way, No Way!" from a pair of hikers who we saw on the Helon Taylor Trail some three hours ago and then we passed another group we saw earlier carefully descending the Chimney. The highlight was for the second straight year we ran into a young group of Amish from their community in Patten, ME making their way across the Knife Edge, they were moving better than most hikers who had significant advantages in gear over the Amish.

- Heading from Pamola to Baxter in this direction is definitely easier as the Chimney is not as problematic, coming from Baxter there is an awkward downclimb from Chimney Peak which can be a little unnerving. 

- When we reached Baxter Peak we took a break, there were several thru-hikers lounging around after finishing their A.T. journey. The lucked out and had a gem mint finishing day weather wise!

Afternoon view of the Knife Edge from Pamola Peak

Todd steeply descends to the Pamaola/Chimney col and cruising along the Knife Edge

Knife Edge

Baxter Peak

South Basin and Chimney Pond

- Last section of the day was a run down to Thoreau Spring before one last steep descent of the Abol Trail back to the valley. We lucked out as there was high cloud cover so we were in the shade for the first mile as even though it was the last day of September the weather had a mid-summer feel on Katahdin. Back into the sun we carefully picked our way down the top half of Abol Trail before the grades moderated at the new switchback up high, the trail was relocated as a rockslide wiped out part of the trail below this spot making the middle section of Abol Trail much easier than before to descend.

- We made decent time back to the trailhead where we signed the hiker log book at the ranger's station before making quick work of the two miles along the tote road arriving at Katahdin Stream campground 8 hours and 40 minutes after we started, which was basically spot on from our 8 hours and 42 minutes from last year, all day pace equals always consistent!

- We got cleaned off and relaxed for awhile at Katahdin Stream before heading back to Neso Field where we planned our hike for getaway day, the Travelers! 

Todd heads down the Hunt Trail towards Thoreau Spring

Descending the steep upper section of the Abol Trail

Tote Road running and the view from Katahdin Stream Trailhead

Date of Hike: 10/1/24

Pogey Notch Trail: 1.5 miles / Center Ridge Trail: 2.3 miles / Traveler Mount Trail: 4.5 miles / North Traveler Mountain Trail: 2.8 miles

Total Miles: 11.1 (4000' elevation gained)

- On travel day we headed to the north end of the park to South Branch Pond Campground to hike one of the most underrated hikes in Baxter State Park, the Travelers. 

- The Travelers has several unique aspects to them; Little Knife Edge, highest volcanic mountain in New England, and super expansive views created from wildfires from over a hundred years ago. 

- The loop consists of parallelling Lower and Upper South Branch Ponds, a steep ascent to treeline to Peak of the Ridges Summit, Little Knife Edge, moss covered single track, a talus field to Traveler Mountain, open ledges and moss-covered woods to North Traveler, and a beautiful descent in and out of the woods back to South Branch Campground. Highly recommend for anyone who has hiked the main attractions of Baxter and Hamlin to head to the Travelers, and unless you are peak bagging the NE67 or NE Hundred Highest I would tell anyone skip the Brothers, Coe and Fort and head to South Branch, it's well worth the extra drive on a good weather day.

- The Travelers Loop was our last excursion in Baxter State Park before leaving the park from the Matagamon Gate and eventually making our way back to I-95 for the long but easy ride back to our homes in the White Mountains. It was another successful fall trip to a place that for me is the Cathedral of hiking east of thew Rockies!

Upper South Branch Pond, Black Cat and South Branch mountains

Peak of the Ridges

Heading towards the Little Knife Edge

Partial undercast on Mount Katahdin

Left - Beautiful sections of moss and soft dirt single track between Peak of the Ridges and Traveler

Right - Mountain. Unexpected Birch glade along the northern shoulder of North Traveler Mountain

Looking back to Peak of the Ridges

A magnificent Talus field leading up to Traveler Mountain

Pano view of Turner - Katahdin - Hamlin - Brothers 

Traveler Mountain summit

Todd heads down from Traveler Mountain high above a never-ending band of low-level clouds

Descending North Traveler

Not much has grown back above 3000' from the fires during the early twentieth century. Makes for a beautiful trek

Lower and Upper South Branch ponds

Baxter Bash 2023

9/27/23

Helon Taylor: 3.2 miles / Knife Edge: 1.1 miles / Saddle Trail: 1.0 miles / Northwest Basin Trail: 1.0 miles / Hamlin Ridge Trail: 1.5 miles / North Basin Trail: 0.3 miles / North Basin Cutoff: 0.7 miles / Chimney Pond Trail: 2.3 miles

11.1 miles (4,850' elevation gained)

9/28/23

Hunt Trail: 5.3 miles / Knife Edge: 1.1 miles / Helon Taylor Trail: 3.2 miles / Chimney Pond Trail: 3.4 miles / Dudley Trail: 1.4 miles / Knife Edge: 1.1 miles / Abol Trail: 4.0 miles / Tote Road: 2.0 miles

21.5 miles (9,250' elevation gained)

9/29/23

Chimney Pond Trail 3.2 miles / Cathedral Trail: 1.4 miles / Knife Edge: 1.1 miles / Helon Tail Trail: 3.2 miles

8.9 miles (4,150' elevation gained)

Trip Report

- Every September after Labor Day I start eyeing up lean-to and campsite openings mid-week in Baxter State Park during good weather windows. Summer vacation is over, bugs are long gone, leaves start to change colors, basically it's the perfect time of year to drive up to Millinocket and get into the park which for me is the cathedral of hiking in the northeast.

- Last year I was able to scoop up a lean-to during peak foliage the first week of October, this year I nabbed a lean-to during the last week of September just as the leaves started to change color.

- Joining me this year was my travel buddy, Strava Todd, we left his place in Jackson, NH at 4AM and made the long but easy drive up to the park, making it to the gate around 9:15AM and to the Roaring Brook Trailhead about twenty minutes later.

The painted boulder, a few miles outside of the park, a good place to take a tourist pic and stretch the legs for a minute

- Day one was a classic loop up Helon Taylor, across the Knife Edge, down the Tableland, over and down Hamlin Peak, and an easy hike out via Chimney Pond Trail.

- Temperatures were warm down low and a little crisp up high with some decent wind gusts. When we broke above treeline the clouds were slowly clearing off the Knife Edge above us as we made our way to Pamola Peak. 

- Helon Taylor is probably the easiest approach to the Knife Edge with moderate grades the whole way, no scrambling, and only some loose small rocks over the last hundred feet below Pamola Peak. 

- Once on the Knife Edge, the real fun began, this 1.1 mile stretch is second to none for hiking/scrambling in the northeast. Huge drop-offs and dramatic views!

Todd heading up to Pamola Peak

Classic Knife Edge shot

Knife Edge

- Halfway across the Knife Edge we entered back into the clouds and it mostly stayed this way until heading down Hamlin Ridge so no big views were to be had heading across the Tableland

View of the Knife Edge from Hamlin Ridge

Basin Ponds and South Turner Mountain

- Once back below treeline we hooked onto the slippery and moss-covered rocks of the North Basin and Basin Cutoff trails on our way to Chimney Pond Trail. We made quick work of the Chimney Pond Trail back to Roaring Brook Trailhead finishing around 2PM before making the hour drive over to our lean-to at Nesowadnehunk Field.

Lean-to #10 Nesowadnehunk Field

Day 2: Double Day on Baxter

- On Thursday, we started at dawn along the Hunt Trail (Appalachian Trail) for a big day of roaming around Baxter Peak. Hunt Trail is a bit of a grind to get to treeline but once it breaks into the open the views become huge and the trail itself is much more adventerous with a few spots where you have to maneuverer up and over some big boulders with the help of re-bar.

- Hunt Trail and the Tableland above treeline was windy and cold but once we started across the Knife Edge we were out of the wind for the most part and had the whole ridge to ourselves as we traversed it around 9AM. 

Todd heads up the Hunt Trail

Looking back down the Hunt Trail

Baxter Peak

Pamola Peak

- From Pamola peak we descended Helon Taylor Trail all the way to Roaring Brook Trailhead and then turned right back around and took the Chimney Pond Trail to Chimney Pond. At the pond we tried to filter water from my Sawyer Squeeze but it was barely working so we just scooped water from the pond without filtering. I had down this last year without any issues and luckily again we both had no problems with getting sick from not filtering.

'

Todd descends Helon Taylor Trail

Beautiful outlook at Lower Basin Pond

Todd running over the old but sturdy bridge along the Chimney Pond Trail

Chimney Pond

- Now it was time to steeply head back up via the Dudley Trail. Trail crews worked hard cutting a new reroute a few years ago after a slide wiped out the lower section of the trail. We marveled at their handy work as we made our way through the woods along a long switchback up to treeline where we hooked back onto the old existing upper section of the trail. 

- Hunt Trail to Pamola peak above treeline is filled with huge boulders to climb up, around, and over but none of the moves are tricky and anytime you need to catch your breath you can just turn around and look at the views which will quickly re-energizes anyone.

Todd gets a pic of me picking my way up the boulders with Chimney Pond far below

View from Dudley Trail

- At the summit of Pamola we traversed the Knife Edge for the second time of the day, this time there were hikers scattered across the Knife Edge but it never seemed too busy. Along the way we even saw some interesting outfits on a few hikers!

Not sure what is going on here but they were all doing great!

- When we reached Baxter Peak we took a short break before going back down the Tableland to the Abol Trail where we made the steep descent back to the Tote Road. Abol Trail has also been rerouted making this a much easier trail to descend then before. Still, the upper half is steep and loose so caution is needed but once you leave the slide the trail becomes much easier. 

- After picking our way down the upper half of the slide we made quick work of the rest of the trail and ran two miles up the Tote Road back to the Jepp at Katahdin Stream Trailhead.

Todd makes his way back down the Tableland

Picking our way down the upper half of the Abol Trail on the slide

Day 3: Getaway / Get Away Day

- Friday morning we headed back over to Roaring Brook Trailhead to hike my favorite trail, Cathedral, and then one last traverse of the Knife Edge. On the way to the trailhead I got a flat tire, a rock went right through my tire, tires which are supposedly some of the best off road tires, so it was disappointing that a rock punctured the tire of my Jeep with these beefy tires. To add insult to injury a bunch of little sedans with regular tires were driving to the trailhead most likely laughing at me.

- Once we figured out how to use the jack correctly and where to place it correctly, totally different from my previous Jepp, we quickly switched out the flat with the full sized spare and drove the remaining few miles to Roaring Brook Trailhead and started up the mountain.

Bullseye, direct hit by this rock, a deep tire puncture that could not be plugged. 

- We trail ran to Chimney Pond and before we headed up we were asked to sign into the hiker's log book at the ranger's cabin. The ranger, who must have thought we were amateurs, started asking questions as if we have never hiked before. Even after informing her that we both live ten minutes from Pinkham Notch, she still was schooling me on a few things, always an enjoyable experience.

- After escaping the ranger we headed up the Cathedral Trail, what a beauty of a trail. It's rough and rugged as is sharply rises up to the first Cathedral, traveling through a boulder field just below treeline followed by some fun bouldering and slabby scrambles as it passes the three spires of the cathedrals.

- Just before treeline another hiker huffed and puffed to catch up to us. Not positive, but there was a 50% chance the ranger sent this dude to keep an eye on us, this hiker didn't think we knew what we were doing out here either. Our getaway day on the mountain was now quickly becoming a "Get Away From Me Day." After chatting with this fellow for a minute or two assuring him we knew what we were doing we zoomed up to the first Cathedral. 

- Once topping out and taking in the incredible view of the first cathedral we were treated with a pop quiz from an older hiker who also must have thought we were a couple of city-slickers. "Have you been here before", "you are on the first Cathedral", "Are you looking at the rock over on the Dudley Trail, that is Index Rock." I politely replied, "Yes we've been here a few times, yes the first Cathedral is great, Yes, I know where Index Rock is but we actually have been looking over there up to Chimney Peak because we have a map from 1948 that has an old trail called Chimney Trail and were wondering where that abandoned trail must have gone."

-  Finally after passing this hiker with all the answers to the test we got to enjoy the rest of the Cathedral Trail up to the top of Baxter Peak without interruptions while taking in the rugged views along the way. 

- At the summit we took a nice break and watched some thru-hikers finishing, always a great site!

Looking up at the first cathedral

Todd picks his way up the Cathedral Trail between the first and second spires

Perfect view of Hamlin Peak and the Great Basin

What a great moment it must have been for these two finishers!

Todd enjoying our last day on Mount Katahdin

- After our relaxing break in perfect weather we made our way across the Knife edge one last time, passing by many happy hikers along the way. We did run into one more hiker who made a sly comment about our attire, calling it "presi running kit." He later almost got his hiking partner cliffed out as he unwisely descended the Chimney off trail and she followed him and froze up, she had to turn around and crawl back up to where the trail was all the while he watched from below without helping out. We saw this spectacle from across the way as we were stuck at a choke point heading up Pamola while letting some nice but frightened hikers scoot down a tricky scramble.

- Once free of traffic we quickly summitted Pamola Peak and enjoyed the fabulous weather as we descended Keep Ridge along the Helon Taylor Trail. 

- Back at Roaring Brook we cleaned off and relaxed for awhile before making the drive back home to the White Mountains of New Hampshire.  

- It was the second straight year of perfect timing for a mid-week adventure in Baxter State Park. I really enjoy the rules and regulations that the park has which keeps the number of hikers at bay while the park itself is very clean and pristine, a real joy, and I'm already looking forward to heading back again!

Todd with Keep Ridge in view

One last view of the magnificent Knife Edge!