Hiking in the White Mountains: Jefferson #100

Date of Hike: 7/20/23

Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail: 2.6 miles / Crawford Path: 0.1 miles / Mount Monroe Loop: 0.7 / Crawford Path: 1.5 miles / Mount Eisenhower Loop: 0.8 miles / Crawford Path: 1.2 miles / Webster-Cliff Trail: 0.2 miles / Crawford Path: 5.4 miles / Gulfside Trail: 1.1 miles / Mount Clay Loop: 1.2 miles / Gulfside Trail: 2.8 miles / Israel Ridge Trail: 0.1 miles / Lowe's Path: 0.3 miles / Airline: 0.6 miles / Gulfside Trail: 0.3 miles / Osgood Trail: 1.0 miles / Gulfside Trail: 2.4 miles / Mount Jefferson Loop: 0.7 miles / Gulfside Trail: 1.9 miles / Cog Railway Path: 2.5 miles

Total Miles: 27.3 miles (10,350' elevation gained)

Trip Report:

- Almost 32 years after summitting Mount Jefferson for the first time in October of 1991, I set out for my 100th ascent of the rugged peak located in the Northern Presidential Range. I made the most of #100 by doing all the Presi peaks along the way with Jefferson being the last one of the day while hiking/running a creative route that would keep me above treeline for 22 of the 27 miles.

- 5AM, I started at Marshfield Station and hopped onto the Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail. Over the past few weeks I had seen pictures and videos of waterlogged trails and impassable crossings but on this day the trail was in great shape and the upper crossing above the falls was as easy as it gets.

- The first 1.5 miles has gentle grades with ok footing until reaching the Gem Pool. From here the trail ascends 1500' in one mile over rough and rugged terrain. Luckily for me the temperature was nice and cool while the rocks were extra grippy as I made my way above treeline to Lakes of the Clouds Hut.

Gem Pool

The steep ascent up the Ammonoosuc Ravine Trail, with a little help from this small ladder

Pano of upper water crossing at the top of the falls. Easy crossing on this day

Nice cascade along the trail

Approaching Lakes of the Clouds Hut with a few A.T. thru-hikers set up after being shut out on crashing at the hut.

- All was quiet as I passed by the hut at 6AM. I refilled my water before making my way over Mount Monroe and south on the Crawford Path. The trails in the Southern Presidential Range are much easier to navigate through than the northern half of the range. Footing is pleasant and I went into cruise control as I made my way over Franklin, Eisenhower, and Pierce.

- Along the way I saw a couple of early morning thru-hikers between Franklin and Eisenhower and started seeing the first day hikers about 0.5 miles from Pierce.

Lakes of the Clouds and Mount Washington as seen from Mount Monroe Loop

On Mount Monroe summit with the early morning sun shining brightly

Descending Mount Monroe Loop Trail

Mount Franklin summit

Looking back north while crossing over the Presidential Lawn

Next up, Mount Eisenhower

Easy to see why this peak was once called Pleasent Dome

Mount Eisenhower summit

Descending Mount Eisenhower Loop with Mount Pierce in view

View from Mount Pierce

- With the southern peaks in the range knocked off it was time to turn around and head north on the Crawford Path all the way to the summit of Mount Washington bypassing both Eisenhower and Monroe along the way. My plan was to hopefully nab free leftover pancakes at Lakes of the Clouds Hut but I was denied as the thru-hikers were hogging all the leftovers. I figured they earned it more than me and with Mount Washington only 1.5 miles uphill I could just wait to stuff my face with food other than the usual stuff that was in my running vest.

- I motored past a few hikers on the way up the Rock Pile, passing by two gentlemen that thought the air quality was awful from the wildfires. I told them they were lucky as it had been ten times worse the previous two days. I actually thought the air quality was fine all day but it hits everyone differently.

- 9AM, I summited Mount Washington and immediately headed to the cafeteria to stock up on food and drinks while taking a ten minute break. It was a ghost town while I was there with only two other hikers shuffling around the summit area.

Heading back north on the Crawford Path just south of Franklin with Monroe and Washington in view

On the way back north I stay low and scoot around the summit of Franklin

Lil' Monroe, Monroe, and Washington

Curving around the eastern side of Mount Monroe

Lakes of the Clouds

Clouds start over taking Mount Washington as I head up Crawford Path

Mount Monroe

Looking back down as the clouds start to overtake me

Summit cone of Washington was in and out of the clouds when I was up there

- Now it was time for me to do an out and back of the Northern Presidential Range, starting with Mount Clay. I was in and out of the clouds until descending Clay and then I was in the clear the rest of the day below a high cloud coverage which made hiking ten times easier than if I had been under the sun while rock hopping.

- As I headed down from Clay I felt sluggish for the first time, the sugar high from my frosted lemon pound cake I ate from the cafeteria had worn off, so I had to refuel and make sure to stay on top of hydrating to not bonk at any point throughout the day. I popped some shot blocks in my mouth and within a few minutes I felt back to normal and made easy work around Mount Jefferson to Edmands Col, up to Thunderstorm Junction, and to the top of Mount Adams.

- Mount Adams was the first summit of the day that was semi crowded but everyone was in good spirits. I snapped a few pictures before jogging down to the Adams / Madison col where I bypassed the hut. My strategy was to just get up and down Madison and take a break back at the hut before the final push back over to Jefferson and out.

- 11:15AM, Mount Madison summit. I was making great time, my goal was to get here by noon so I was ahead of the game and I relaxed knowing I wouldn't have to hurry back across the range to get home to Sargent Pepper.

The old steam cog train makes one of its only two runs of the day, leaving behind a pretty ugly trail of grossness

Crossing over the Mount Clay Loop

Mount Adams from the shoulder of Mount Jefferson

Lowe's Path / Israel Ridge Trail junction 0.2 miles below Mount Adams

Incredible view of Star Lake and Mount Madison as seen from Mount Adams

Madsion Spring hut and Madison's summit cone

Summit of Mount Madison

Mount Adams and Madison Spring Hut as seen from the Osgood Trail

- At Madison Spring Hut I sat on the steps and took a ten minute break. I had pushed it up and down the summit cone of Madison, so I needed to regroup before heading back out. I refueled on water, ate some food, and prepared my gear for the last 8 miles.

- The hut's baked goods selection on this day was subpar, one ginger snack bar left for $3 and no lemonade. Was hoping for cookies and lemonade!

- As I started the steep hike out of the col I took my time until the Gulfside Trail leveled out at the Airline trail junction. From here to Thunderstorm Junction the path is easily traveled with nicely placed rocks for a stretch before the long gradual descent over rough terrain to Edmands Col.

- When I reached Edmands Col I was feeling a little drained. I added two Nuun tablets to my water bladder and scarfed down a brown sugar pop tart. I don't know what was in that pop tart but within minutes I was ready to tackle the steep climb up to Mount Jefferson, reaching the summit at 12:40PM.

- #100 for Mount Jefferson, how did I feel? Same way I always do, just happy to be above treeline on an above treeline day!

- Five miles to go. First was a quick descent down to Sphinx Col before climbing up the side of Mount Clay and over to the Cog Railway swath, easy going. I felt great, my knee was aching as it was my biggest mile and elevation day since late April before bruising it, but no pain.

- As I jogged beside the cog a few trains were heading up, at one point I got my apple phone out to take a quick picture and immediately slipped on my butt. Not one fall or trip all day until the last mile in front of a train full of people, always happens!

- 1:45PM, I was back at the Jeep cleaning off, downing fluids, and eating everything I had left in my running vest just as a few drops of rain started to fall. Perfect timing and a great way to end a fabulous day wandering above treeline!